Kevin, after delivering us safely to this lovely hotel, has introduced us to Peter, our instructor for the remainder of the journey. Kevin will return to his Canal Boat in London for a well-deserved rest. We learn that Peter has been instrumental in the design and planning of this particular Road Scholar tour (Quintessential Britain), and this morning we will discuss the nuances and realities of that oh so pretty word...quintessential.
In the process of creating "Quintessential Britain" Peter and his cohorts met to decide on their understanding of "quintessential".They concluded (if I understood him right) that quintessential means the best of the typical. As an example of that discussion, we learn that Real Ale and Fish & Chips are quintessential to Britain. So is the Village Pub. Regarding agriculture (one of Peter's specialties) the Ridge & Furrow system of preparing fields, as well as Field Boundaries qualify. Ruined Castles and/or Abbeys are quintessential. Thatched Roofs, Cooked Breakfast, Cycling, Cricket, Table Tennis, Churches and the Royal Family also made the list. We may look forward to examples of all of the above over the next two weeks.
Personally, I would consider the Three Ways House Hotel in Mickelton to be quintessential. In an informal poll near the end of our trip, most in our group chose this as their favorite hotel. We agree.
In 1996, the Cotswolds were named an "Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty" or AONB. Since then, three additional studies have added acres here and there to the AONB. I love the British. I love their sense of order and their understanding of the need to protect and preserve precious natural lands. Today, we will visit three Cotswold villages: Broadway, Stow-on-the-Wold, and Chipping Campden.
We're making a little walk-around in Broadway. It's raining off and on, but that's what you expect in Britain. This beautiful lush landscape didn't just happen. It takes a lot of consistent moisture to produce that beauty. Broadway is considered one of the prettiest towns in England and, personally, I'd be happy to move in.
Day by day, I'm becoming more convinced that anytime you give an Englishman (or woman) a spit of land, they will landscape it to within an inch of its life. We found examples everywhere.
And about that English reputation for dour faces? Despite the Queen, I think they have wonderful senses of humor. In her defense, I need to remember she has lots of important business to take care of.
We're moving on now to Stow-on-the-Wold, where we'll have time to explore the city center and find a bit of lunch. We've opted for the White Hart, and are not disappointed. I'm looking primarily for a roaring fireplace, but despite this Arizona girl's chilblains, the English are acting as if today, a little damp perhaps, is balmy overall. It is July, after all, even at this latitude.
I'm opting for Baked Billy's egg, chorizo and etc. Bruce was ready for hot, rich, thick soup of any sort accompanied by that promised local bread. He wished for plates of that local bread. The atmosphere here was friendly (we ate in the bar area) comfortable and familial. I would like to add warm, but it was not, as the door to the patio remained open the entire time we were here. Brrr.
We stopped at this charming little cemetery as we neared Chipping Campden. It's still wet and windy, but Peter has a treat in store. In the first paragraph above, I mentioned "Ridge and Furrow." This was the common manner of plowing in the Middle Ages, and the examples we see today survive from that period. Plowing was done with teams of oxen and Peter is eager to demonstrate how those dramatic (especially when you consider they're hundreds of years old) ridge and furrows we see from the highways were actually formed. We have assignments: Some of us are oxen, some are the ancient plow. I'm an oxen, as is Bruce, although we're on different teams. We proceeded to plow an abbreviated furrow and, as Peter directs our turn, we can visualize the ridge that we are creating for posterity. Centuries ago, the difference between the depth of the furrow and the height of the ridge could be as much as six feet. I understand if you're scratching your head and thinking "Do I care about this?" But, despite the weather, it was fun, and a great example of Peter's contagious enthusiasm for all things British. I couldn't leave it out.
I wonder if the British are much more likely to keep their cities and villages tidy and law-abiding simply because they word their requests so nicely.
These arched rafters make the Chipping Campden Market quintessential. This open market near the center of the village was built in 1627, and has held up quite well. Despite the rain, a merchant with beautiful sheepskins and furs has set up business. His wares were so soft and rich, that if my suitcase had not been packed to the point of bursting, I would have been tempted. Instead, I was simply complimentary.
It's late afternoon, and we've returned to Mickelton with plenty of time for a little snooze or, perhaps, a cup of tea and a really good book. Dinner won't be served for a couple of hours yet and the Three Ways House Hotel has a lovely lounge designed for just this sort of quiet moment. Day Seven has been a great success.
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