12.10.2015

BLISTS HILL & FARNDON PARISH CHURCH

Before our trip to the UK, I began researching the different places we would visit, and the sights we would see.  On this day, we will be leaving our lovely little Three Ways House Hotel, then stopping by the Iron Bridge Gorge Museum, Blists Hill Victorian Village and Farndon Parish Church.  We will sleep tonight in Chester.

Information was a little scarce on these three sites.  Unless something has changed since, Rick Steves ignored them altogether.  The Iron Bridge Gorge Museum of our itinerary, is actually one of ten related museums located throughout this particular area of England.  I've picked up that the beautiful gorge we will see, was once a great ironworks center, made practical because of the nearby coal deposits.  It is all about the Industrial Revolution.  Unfortunately, I found the Industrial Revolution and all that went with it, to be terribly boring when I was in school and, in my secret heart of hearts, I'm wondering why Road Scholar would see fit to drag us here.

We drove first into the village of Ironbridge, parking in one of England's lovely car and coach parks.  We love car and coach parks, because we know a loo will be close by and, being older, loos are always welcome.  They are generally clean, neat, and nearly always free.

After we regrouped, we began a walk along the River Severn to the first cast-iron bridge ever built.  Ever.  Today, it's cited as one of the symbols of the Industrial Revolution.


I must admit it is a beautiful bridge, and I can't imagine the complexities of building this in the late 1700s.  And, the guidebooks were right...this is a gorgeous area.  As we walked across the bridge (motor traffic is forbidden--or strictly limited now) the gorge, both to our right and left were remarkably lush and green..



At one point in time, I stopped listening to many of the facts and figures and simply began finding Quintessential British scenes along the way.  Sometimes I still wonder:  Why not England, Lord? Why Dodge City?  But, I'm lucky to be here at all, so I shouldn't get picky.  But England would have been nice. 


The little village of Ironbridge wasn't nearly as deserted as it looks here.  I need to remember that it was an industrial town and they weren't built for beauty and comfort.   Here, it becomes easy to imagine this beautiful gorge buried under the dense, black, greasy smoke of the coal-fired furnaces, as they burned hot enough to produce the pig iron of the times.  I thought especially of the children who grew up in this environment.  Their life spans would have to have been shortened as their little lungs processed the residue of all that pollution.  It's not windy here.  The smoke would have laid heavy on this gorge and all who lived in it.

As we went through the museum, we noticed a small exhibit showing the delicate and elaborate china that was produced here.  Young girls were brought in and taught to paint the china, and it was exquisite.  What a contrast to the roar and flame and crash of iron production.  The idea of girls in their tween years leaving home to work here, amidst the roar of blast furnaces was too much. 


The English always seem prepared for all eventualities.  This little couple, settled near the river, were protected from sun and rain.  They carried newspapers and fishing poles, and seemed quite comfortable with their place in life.  Lots to be learned here... 

Our next stop was Blists Hill Victorian Village, an elaborate re-creation of  a 17th and 18th century "typical" village of the area.   Many of the buildings used in the production of coal and iron continue to stand in their original settings.  Other buildings have been brought in (in pieces) and reconstructed, or newly built from plans and pictures of commercial buildings and private homes of the era.  It's a lively little village, and would be quite easy to enjoy for a full day. You'll see how the townspeople lived, where they worked, the pubs they enjoyed, the doctor they visited and the gardens they grew.  And more.  It was fun. 

Sometimes I think I'm a little jaded because I grew up with the Dodge City Front Street replica within easy walking distance.  My son, in his high school years, was a gunfighter there; and, one of my daughters acted in the melodramas and sewed in the general store.  My daughter-in-law was a Can-Can girl and dished out ice-cream in the...Ice Cream Shop.  All this is to say, I'm never too excited about re-created villages, but Blists Hill was a good one.  Don't avoid it.

After walking a mile or two through and around the village, we gathered at the coach and drove to nearby (relatively speaking) Farndon Parish Church.  Remember, we are viewing Quintessential Britain, and there is a reason for each stop we make.  Each time we visit a site, that site is representative of many sites nearby or at the other end of this little country.  Each is unique and each has a story to tell. Farndon Parish Church found itself in the crosshairs of enemy forces during England's Civil War in the mid-1600s, and very nearly didn't survive.  The very base of the churchtower and the plan of the church date from the 1300s, but the rest of the building was rebuilt after the war ended.  



I would suggest this tree-wrapped-tree might still hide a few bullet holes from that Civil War battle mentioned above.  Maybe a actual bullets, also.   Farndon Parish Church is actually St. Chad's Church and open to the public with appointment.  A delightful little lady met us there and showed us through the church, pointing out  treasures here and there.  She, as so many of our local guides, was a friend of Peter's, and their interaction was always fun to watch.



The early English didn't sugar-coat death.  I've seen more skulls, with or without crossbones, in the many cemeteries we have wandered through, than in any recent pirate movie.  Death is death to the English.  It will happen and we need to be reminded of that every now and then.  Even their epitaphs can be brutally honest. This is a chest tomb which seemed quite common at Farndon Parish Church.  The little churchyards are charming, despite the death issue, but beginning to fall on hard times as the cost to maintain them is prohibitive for a small parish.  Sad.

Eventually, we ended our day in Chester...as usual, in the small hotel bar discussing our day over a half-pint or two.  Road Scholars are my kind of people!  And, despite my earlier doubts, Road Scholar did another wonderful job  planning this day.  Sneak Preview:  Tomorrow is a perfect culmination of this Industrial Revolution theme. 

2 comments:

  1. I spent several months in England and Wales in 1958 with my first husband. He grew up in Bolton, Lancashire, and went to college in Chester. You have stirred up a lot of old memories for me with this post! When in Chester, look for the wall that the Romans built. It should still be there...

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  2. Cool bridge. Swear I have seen it in a movie.

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