5.16.2014

VERDE CANYON RAILROAD

Today, we're riding the rails.  The Verde Canyon Rails to be specific.  We've lived here long enough that we should be ashamed of ourselves for waiting so long to do this because it turned out to be a great time.  Embarrassingly, what finally got us off of our ever-expanding cabooses was an invitation from BC's brother.  Fortunately, we were smart enough to say "yes."


One joins the rails at Clarkdale, AZ, about two hours or so northwest of Phoenix.  Clarkdale isn't the easiest town to find, but your phone Maps App knows the way, so you won't get lost in the desert.  Once there, just watch for the depot signs and when you get to a wide spot in the road with a parking area on the right, pull in.

We were about ninety minutes early for our departure, which meant we were thirty minutes late when it came to finding a place to sit in the depot courtyard that wasn't in the full blazing sun.  The depot houses a small  museum, a couple of gift shops, a lunch counter of sorts and, on the morning we were there, offered a wine tasting which is always a good thing, even at 11:30 a.m.

BC's brother had booked us into a First Class car which proved to be very nice indeed.  We had large, comfortable fairly cushy chairs grouped around a low table.  First Class provides a welcoming and generous pour of bubbly, a nice spread of hors' d'oeuvres and an extremely busy bar staffed by an attentive group.  The caboose of the train is used for private parties of about eight or so people, and the Tourist Class cars are set-up as a regular train might be.  These are old train cars, but nicely maintained and "charmingly" mismatched.  They have come from many railway companies at different times in their history.  As far as I could tell, there is an Open View Car between every two passenger cars, so you can walk outside any time you wish for a panoramic view...and there were some wonderful ones.



As you can tell we're a pretty long train.  I was surprised.  The Railroad maintains a running commentary during the forty mile trip so you always know where you are, the history outside your window, and just exactly where to spot the eagles.  You'll see Sinagua cliff dwellings, remnants of the copper mining that was huge in this area of Arizona, remains of early-day ranches near the Verde River, and the gorgeous red sandstone cliffs close enough to reach out and touch.  But don't.  I'm afraid you'd rip your arm off.


No train ride is complete unless there is a tunnel along the way.  Our particular tunnel (per Verde Canyon's information) is 680 feet long and curved, so trust me:  Going in, there is absolutely no light at the end of it.  None.  They tell us that at some points the train comes within six inches of the walls.  They also note that the tunnel was blasted through solid limestone and is only supported by timbers at one end for about 30 feet.  Perhaps it's just as well that it is dark as pitch inside.


The train comes to a stop at Perkinsville, although the rails continue north for another twenty miles or so where they meet the Burlington Northern.  There isn't much left of Perkinsville except a home or two and cattle grazing in this green peaceful valley.


Yes, this is the Perkinsville Depot, or the remains of the same.  I don't know why they would ever come clear out here in the middle of Arizona, but this building played a part in the movie, "How the West Was Won."  Debbie Reynolds, Eli Wallach and George Peppard (remember how good looking he was) actually filmed a few scenes inside back in the '60s.  We're parked outside where our engine, is in the process of disconnecting from the train and will pull around on a neighboring track to hook up again and pull us back to Clarkdale. 


She's comin' around and isn't she a beauty!  I know it sounds boring to simply follow the same track back for twenty miles, but I'm always amazed how different things look when you approach them from the opposite direction.  It's like a totally new ride. 

By the way, if you're hungry when you disembark from the train, Clarkdale and Cottonwood (only a few miles apart) have a surprising number of really nice restaurants.  Kick back and enjoy!

Please let me know what your favorite Arizona adventure is.  Or maybe a favorite New Mexico adventure.  We'll be passing through there in a few weeks.  Thanks!

Margie
margiestaggs44@gmail.com          

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